My husband managed to keep a secret from me for eight months! Forever ago I spotted a lovely secluded cottage in a magazine, pointed it out to him, and then promptly forgot about it. Roland booked the first available spot at Weskus hokkie, which was eight months away and managed not to tell me about it until we opened the door to the cabin.
Even when I hinted that we had not done anything romantic in a while he kept that little card close to his chest. If it were me I would have immediately gone with, “well I DID book us a romantic getaway, so in your face.” Luckily I was smart enough not to marry someone like me.
The cottage really is cute as a button. It has everything you need, a gorgeous view, and a bathroom built into the rocks.
Dassies played on all the boulders and the cutest dog and cat, named Chutney, came to visit us while we sipped our coffee out on the porch.
The doggy is usually up at the main house but we were very happy that he snuck out for a visit.
This was the friendliest kitty in the world!
Dassie or Rock Hyrax
However, the best feature by far is that you can use the ‘donkey’
to heat an outdoor hot tub. There is nothing better than relaxing in warm water
under a pink sky while a braai fire is slowly burning down to ash.
Donkey boiler – You heat a tank of water by burning wood.
#NoFilter – The sky was just ridiculous!
The next day we visited Lambert’s Bay bird island nature reserve to go see what felt like a billion gannets. Bird Island is one of only six sites world-wide where Cape gannets breed, and it is the only breeding site easily accessible to the public. Fair warning, it is a bit whiffy but still worth seeing so many birds living their best life.
As a reward for surviving such a stanky day out, we treated ourselves to an evening at Muisbosskerm. This open air restaurant is something else. Everywhere you look pots are bubbling and fish is frying. It is buffet style and man can you stuff yourself with fresh, quality seafood and sides.
This bad boy was full of baking bread!
After eating the best sweet potatoes I have ever had I asked the chef how she managed to make them so tasty. She smiled and held up a tin cup saying, “six cups of sugar usually does the trick”.
There are other options if you don’t do seafood
Not only was the informal vibe fantastic and the food absolutely unbeatable, the sunset was not going to be outdone either.
Roland had a real conundrum on his hands as he had to choose between taking thousands of photos or eating crayfish fresh off the grill. Being a crappy photographer came in real handy as all I had to do was tuck into the freshly baked bread and moerkoffie.
Moerkoffie
Weskus hokkie really is worth getting your calendar out for! Why not surprise yourself with a little getaway a few months from now.
Details:
We stayed at Weskus hokkie, just outside of lamberts bay.
We ate at Muisbosskerm. Please be aware that they only do the buffet if enough people book in advance so phone and hope for the best.
Photos – Roland Teichert (please link this blog if you use any of them).
Who knew South Africa had its own mini Yosemite. Sure there are less coyotes blocking your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night but looking up at the mountains surrounding the Algeria campsite left me with an uncanny feeling of déjà vu.
Instead of Half Dome or El Capitan you get to set up camp under the towering Cederberg mountains lit up with African sunset hues.
The campsite is pristine (just remember to pack your own toilet paper). I don’t think I have ever had a more perfect camping spot if I am honest. On one side a little river babbled over smooth stones and on the other birds bounced around on the rocks jutting out at all angles.
Tell me that is not an ideal spot
Ask for 46 if you want to copy us
Sure there are no giant sequoias but the fresh breeze blowing through the eucalyptus trees seems to dust all the city out of your soul.
You will see hikers setting off with backpacks full of snacks and rock climbers getting ready to strap themselves to some boulders. However, as one of our camping companions had a broken toe, we settled on some wine tasting and food eating instead.
Cederberg Wines is a lovely stop.Not your typical wine country
When Roland and I visited Yosemite a few years back we were caught off guard by how big an American large pizza can be and ended up storing half of it away in the bear-proof-box outside our tent. At Kromrivier Cederberg Park restaurant we were once again surprised by the quantity and quality of the cheese platter we ordered. The food was so good that even if the campsite did have something like a leopard-proof-box, all we could have put in it was crumbs.
I still sometimes stop what I am doing and think back longingly to those little sausages. View from the restaurantFor breakfast we toasted banana bread and topped it with nutella, fried bananas, whipped cream and nuts.
The night sky is equally free from light pollution although
here southern stars peek out over the mountains and you have to wait for all
the braai fires to die down to really see them shine.
The swimming spot at nightAll the Yosemite feels
So if you do not quite have the cash to fly over to America
right now, I recommend camping at Yosemite’s little South African sister site.
“I think I might be old enough to get away with wearing a shower cap in the pool now,” I thought to myself as a teenager soaked my blow-dried hair that I had neatly tied in a bun on top of my head.
The slightly cooler pool
Luckily before I had time to start lamenting the loss of my hairstyle a girl next to me started talking about how her cousin was a courtesan in the middle east and I obviously had to get in on that eavesdropping action.
Roland and I soaked in the hot spring pools at Goudini so long that we were almost too faint to make it back to our tent.
We took the medium tent this time.
For someone who claims to love hot springs, I sure took a long time to visit the one that is only an hour away from Stellenbosch. Thankfully Roland rectified this situation by overpacking the car and driving me to Goudini Spa.
A view of the resortThe picnic area at sunrise
There are a lot of accommodation options at the resort ranging from the very fancy Slanghoek villas, where you have a private pool, to a lovely campsite where you share the pool with courtesans’ cousins. In between are rondavels, houses, and flats to suit every budget.
The campsiteMore campsite because I was too poor to take photos of the Slanghoek villas.
Remember this if you want electricity.
These springboks hung out near the campsite. What the houses look like.Rondavels
Nothing feels better than a soak in steaming water after a chilly night in a tent, except maybe stuffing yourself with homemade egg mcmuffins after all that floating about.
Homemade mcmuffins!We also ate a healthy meal…once. I mean you have to braai 😀
If you can tear yourself away from all that warm water I also recommend swinging by Jason’s Hill wine estate. As a basic white girl, I loved their Chenin Blanc and their Cabernet Sauvignon is so good I took a bottle back to the tent.
I wish I could be more helpful, but I liked ALL their wines.
The resort is very well run and kept nice and clean. We had great neighbours, although one Oom did keep talking about his foot ailments so loudly that I had trouble reading my book. There is a shop, a restaurant, and a nice easy hiking trail but honestly who cares because there are indoor and outdoor hot springs to swim in.
They also have scruffy kittens running around.Also less cute things apparently.
All in all, I give it two very pruney thumbs up!
Details:
Photos – Roland Teichert (If you do use any please link this blog).
Maybe you have some foreign friends visiting, maybe you are
suffering from a bit of cabin fever, or maybe you are an overseas traveller with
an everlasting itch for things remote. In all three cases I recommend a dose of
the garden route with a dash of adventure.
FranschhoekStellenbosch
I grew up amongst the grassy hills of the Eastern Cape but studied and worked amid the grapevine covered mountains of Stellenbosch. I have lost count of how many times I have travelled along route 62 and the garden route and these are still my favourite roads to explore.
After testing the route on some international friends, my husband and I worked out an itinerary that shows off some quintessentially South African sites but is equally fun for local travellers.
Why not start your trip with wine? Well I mean obviously get a designated driver, or Uber, or use the spit-bucket, I just mean the winelands is a great place to start your tour. Most of my international friends land at Cape Town airport with a fair amount of jetlag. Instead of dragging them up Table Mountain that first day, I usually ease them into South Africa with some wine and cheese.
It can be pretty daunting looking at the long list of vineyards found in towns like Stellenbosch, Paarl, and Franschhoek but as every farm offers something unique, you can’t really go wrong.
Uva Mira is also a beautiful place to do a tasting.
When my friend from Lyon came to visit, we went to more established farms like Lanzerac and Vergelegen, where wine tasting is serious business. I made sure to introduce him to Pinotage, a red wine created in South Africa.
Vergelegen (in Somerset West) has award winning wines and gorgeous gardens to stroll in. Lanzerac is one of the first farms to bottle Pinotage.
When my more casual wine drinking friends arrived we hit up some fun farms like Spier where you can visit Eagle Encounters, an organisation that rescues, rehabilitates, and releases birds of prey. They put on a great show and help promote education and conservation. Spier also offers a juice tasting if you happen to have little ones tagging along or if, like me, you just really like juice.
At Delheim you can pair your wine with cupcakes, at Clos Malverne with exciting ice cream flavours, and at J.C. Le Roux your sparkling wine is accompanied by nougat.
Clos MalverneClos Malverne ice cream tasting Delheim cupcake tastingHow you know that Delheim is hella old
I like to include a visit to Stark-Condé for the awe-inspiring mountain views, or pop into Marianne for a bit of biltong with my wine. Fairview has also been a favourite of mine since my student days, because who does not like fabulous cheeses and some tower climbing goats!
Stark-Condé Biltong tasting at Marianne
Even if you are not a wine lover, the excellent restaurants, spectacular scenery, and the abundance of activities that most vineyards offer is sure to keep you entertained.
Anura
Lourensford
Asara
Hidden Valley
Noble Hill
Vrede & Lust
Vrede & Lust
Waterford
So take a day or two to decompress with a crisp white or a
smooth red before you hit the road leading to the next part of your adventure.
Details:
Photos – Roland Teichert (Please link this blog if you use any of them).
Below is a map of the route that this itinerary will follow.
If you have not read part 1 of this Itinerary, find it here.
Oh how I love the way the sky opens up as you swap Stellenbosch for the Karoo. The Cape Dutch cottages make way for broekielace trimmed farm houses as the road stretches out and the mountains seem to scooch in ever closer.
The road from Stellenbosch to Oudtshoorn.
I no longer care about tannins or terroir, all I want is a milkshake from Diesel & Crème. I never drive the famous route 62 without stopping at my two favourite spots. In Barrydale you will see the retro style of Diesel & Crème from a mile away. Not only do they flip great burgers but their milkshakes set a benchmark that is almost impossible to beat.
A few kilometres further and you will see ‘Ronnies sex shop’. Depending on your disposition the variance between the name and the tame restaurant could leave you either a bit disappointed or a little relieved. Instead of blow-up dolls you can expect a nice lunch and a cold beer.
You can even have a swim while you wait for your order.
Now I have bathed in snow covered onsen in the south of
Japan and soaked in hotpots as sheep grazed a few feet away in Iceland but
there is something very special about sitting in the rustic warm water pools of
the Karoo.
Warmwaterberg spa might not be the most polished of accommodation but to me this peacock filled campsite has always been an unpretentious paradise. You can choose to stay in one of their well kitted out cottages or pitch your tent on a grassy spot close to the natural hot-springs. I love chilling in the goldilocks pool while around me moms drink gin and tonic and dads talk about how they really should be starting the fire already.
On the way to Warmwaterberg spa you drive through this tunnel.
If you do not spot ostriches along the way….
….you are going the wrong way.
Oudtshoorn is always on our list when showing foreign friends around. With its ostrich farms and incredible caves it is almost too easy to keep our international guests entertained. When we are done witblits (white lightning) tasting and cave dwelling for the day we need a place to put up our feet and our favourite place to do this is Gamkaberg nature reserve.
Why not try some Witblits (a type of South African moonshine)?Or any of the farm’s great liqueurs.
You have not experienced solitude until you have experienced
Gamkaberg solitude. You have an entire campground to yourself, except for some
noisy but relatively respectful baboons. If you go as a group you can sit
around the braai under an insane canopy of stars and if you go as a couple you
can have a cheeky skinny dip in your private eco pool until the baboons give
you a big enough fright to send you running to your tent in your birthday suit.
The road leading into GamkabergWe usually book Tierkloof campsite.This is all yours!There is a slightly more indoor shower as well.Naturally filtered poolOne of the pervy baboons that have no respect for your privacy 🙂 Scary walk to the shower.
There is a gorgeous hike through the gorge for those who like a high heartbeat and hammocks for those who prefer their walking to be done by adventurers in fantasy books. It is close enough to see all the sites of Oudtshoorn but far enough away from civilisation that your relaxation batteries will be fully charged for the next chapter of your African expedition.
Details:
Photos – Roland Teichert (please link this blog if you use any photos).
Below is a map of the route that this itinerary follows.
If you have not read part 1 or part 2 you can find them here.
We slowed down and stopped the car on the dusty dirt road. On the opposite side a game ranger stuck his hand out of the window and signalled for us to turn off the car’s ignition. We did as we were told. Next he leaned out of the window and shouted, “don’t worry you are in no danger” causing me to immediately do the opposite. As I started to wonder what I should not be worrying about a huge elephant bull answered my question as he emerged from the vegetation next to the road.
For what felt like ages, the massive elephant slowly walked
right past our car. I could see the tiny hairs on his trunk and the pores on
his skin. My husband and I usually keep a respectful distance from these
beautiful creatures but as one decided to sneak up on us, the best we could do
was to sit frozen in awe. Moments like these are what make Addo national park
pop into my head whenever I feel that itch of adventure.
The park has the word ‘elephant’ in its name for a reason. You will see them often.
You can do Addo in one of three ways. If you are made of
money you can stay at one of the private game farms in or around the park. If
you are made of a little less money you can make use of the park’s cottages and
permanent tents. If you don’t mind that your accommodation comes with a bit of assembly
required you can also pitch your tent among the spekboom. As I prefer to spend
my cash on Star Wars Lego, I have always opted for options two or three.
In my opinion the cottages and permanent tents in the park are due for an update. This being said luxury has never been the reason why I keep coming back. Sure the Safari tents at the rest camp had pretty thin mattresses but that view of buck grazing in the distance and birds trying to steal my breakfast is what I think back to.
The cottages at Matyholweni Rest Camp may have had a tiny TV
but all I remember is laughing at my friends as they tried desperately to catch
the bat that was furiously pooping all over their pillows. Braaing over the
hush of the bushveld canopy, great wine in hand, is also pretty priceless.
A visitor at Matyholweni Rest Camp. Matyholweni Rest Camp
Spekboom tented camp can do with some lanterns instead of spotlights and hopefully the showers have gained some setting in between scalding and iceberg since I have been there but once again that is not what I really paid for. What I remember most is being in the heart of the park early enough to see hyenas and jackals fight over a fresh kill and the little elephant shrews and striped mice that came begging for snacks in the early evenings.
The campsite is pretty great, although my husband did once
open the shower room door to find a few half naked French lads blasting some
music and turning the facilities into their own personal disco. If you are ok
with a bit of euro pop though, you should be fine.
Breakfast view from the campsite
Timon
Pumba
If you are showing some international buds around or if you
are coming to visit South Africa for the first time I cannot recommend Addo
enough. It’s location on the garden route makes for a gorgeous drive or you can
catch a flight to Port Elizabeth. You have a good chance of seeing the big 5,
if the leopards decide to be magnanimous and grace you with their presence, but
honestly there are so many little adventures to have and interesting animals to
see that you will not leave disappointed.
Lions being hella lazy
Just remember to listen to random game rangers when they
tell you to turn off your engine.
If variety is the spice of life then Plettenberg bay will add a lovely flavour to your road trip. You’ve seen enough Karoo ostriches and Eastern Cape elephants and now you are in the mood for something different. Why not add a little lying on the beach, a dash of bird watching, and some of the most scenic hiking the world has to offer.
Tsitsikamma national parkTsitsikamma national park
The last time I showed some foreign friends around we drove straight from Addo to the Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park, hiked to our heart’s content, and then made our way to our Plettenberg bay base-camp. However, if you have more time on your hands why not stay at the Storms river mouth rest camp. This way you can get a good night’s sleep and a leisurely breakfast under your belt before climbing all over the coastline.
Suspension bridge over the Storms riverStorms river
I have never not gotten a kick out of seeing dassies in the wild and these lazy fluff-balls will most likely be waiting for you at the start of the Mouth Hiking Trail. Remember to take some water, a camera for all those scenic views, and some Super C sweets because they are delicious. The Mouth hiking trail is pretty easy and takes you past some lush forest, sparkling ocean, and impressive suspension bridges that children will insist on swinging from side to side no matter how stern a look you give them.
Dassie or Rock HyraxLook at that little face!
If you are not scared of a little elevation in both sea level and heart rate, continue on to the Viewpoint trail once you have reached the end of the Mouth trail. The view is worth the stiff legs you will have the next day.
The viewpoint
A sandwich would be pretty sad without a filling, so in between two hiking days I like to add a chill sightseeing day. Plettenberg bay has gorgeous beaches to catch some rays on or, if like me, you like looking at cute creatures, why not head to one of the three parks that make up the South African animal sanctuary alliance.
Birds of EdenNot exactly an exotic bird but cute nonetheless.
Birds of Eden was up first and man was I pleasantly surprised. As you walk into the largest single span free-flight aviary in the world you cannot help but be impressed. Every care has been taken to give these rescue birds an absolutely badass life. It is so much fun strolling through the misty forest while you constantly call your friends over because you have seen an even cooler bird.
This dude had the best haircut!A Loerie having a bath in the riverKnysna LoerieHartlaub’s Loerie
Next door is Monkeyland primate sanctuary. Now I am not really a monkey person but thanks to a knowledgeable guide and a gorgeous walk, I had a pretty great time at the free-roaming, multi-species primate sanctuary. Not all the birds and monkeys are native to South Africa so if you are looking for a purely African experience you might be better off sticking to the many nature reserves along the garden route. However, getting close up shots of some rare Knysna Loeries and seeing happy lemurs going to town on a huge crate of citrus fruit sure made my day.
These are all rescued lemurs who are now very well taken care of.
Next up was more hiking, this time with crossbones and some controlled danger. Robberg must be one of the most dramatically beautiful hiking trails in all of South Africa. You will be so busy looking at the unending ocean, striking rock formations, and seals playing by the shore that you will forget all about how tired you are. The hike is pretty long but even though the crossbones on the map had me a little nervous, very doable.
Robberg Nature ReserveMore dassies!Seals playing in the ocean
So add some light exercise to you Garden Route itinerary. It makes for a great excuse when you grab some extra garlic bread and potato salad at the braai that night.
Details:
Photos – Roland Teichert (please link this blog if you use any of them).
Below is a map of the route that this itinerary follows.
So you’ve tasted Pinotage in Stellenbosch, had baboons scream at you in the Karoo, had almost too close an encounter with an elephant in Addo, and hiked off at least half the koeksisters you have been gunning down every chance you get. What is next on the agenda? Well after sleeping rough and hiking hard, I now like to move to more ‘treat-yo-self’ territory.
The view from our Airbnb
When in Wilderness I like to get an airbnb with a great view and a bathroom I do not have to trek to in the middle of the night. There are however excellent camping and cottage options like Ebb and Flow rest camp. With the rocky mountain on your left and the river to your right it is hard to find a bad spot at this popular campsite.
Ebb and FlowEbb and FlowEbb and Flow
The rondavels are small but comfortable and after a glass of
good red wine and some borewors fresh from the braai, it will feel five star
worthy.
Inside the rondavel
On the road to our next destination, my husband and I decided to see what Redberry farm in George is all about and hey now were we pleasantly surprised. There is a great big hedge maze, probably meant more for children, but no less fun for adults. The Americans we were travelling with suggested we race as couples and man did we take this challenge too seriously. I will never forget Roland shouting, left, left, left as he applied all the hedge maze knowledge he had ever acquired so we could secure a South African victory.
That is the goofy smile of victory!
After whipping some team USA butt, we treated ourselves to
some strawberry beer, strawberry waffles, and strawberry smoothies.
If you have a strawberry allergy I would give this place a skip.
Now is when I like to amp up the luxury just a tad. I could claim more altruistic reasons such as, I wanted to make sure my international travel companions got to see giraffes, which are not native to the other nature reserves we visited, or that in smaller parks it is easier to spot rhino but honestly I just wanted to soak in a hella nice bath, eat fancy snacks on a game drive, and try five different types of meat at dinner.
Botlierskop lodge
Botelierskop private game reserve is just gorgeous. You have buck strolling right up to your permanent tent to sneak some tasty lawn and I spotted a giraffe while taking an open air shower! When our game drive started I was worried that the rhinos hanging out right by the lodge entrance might mean that it is a very small reserve but I was super wrong. The park is big enough to support free roaming lions, who I have learned over the years need a lot of land and many snacks at their disposal. The guide told us that the rhinos are just lazy and like all the green grass near the lodge.
The guides are more than happy to have them there so they
can keep a close eye on them. On the drive I got to see two honey badgers,
which was a first for me and so Botelierskop gets a big thumbs up.
This impala had a shadow.Much nicer than our usual car snacks of a bag of haribo gummies and warm coke.Our tent!Open air shower!
Being fancy for a while was fun but we still had to
introduce our guests to Cape Town, so we packed the dusty car, waved goodbye to
the grumpy rhinos and hit the road for the last part of our little adventure.
The canola flowers were in full bloom as we drove home.
Details:
Photos – Roland Teichert (please link this blog if you use any of them).
Below is a map of the route that this itinerary follows.
Cape Town has a thousand layers that would take centuries of visits to peel back. Every time you see the city you will be surprised by a new corner shop that serves great Gatsby sandwiches or a fascinating museum that helps explain the city’s complicated history. But what if you don’t have centuries? Showing my foreign friends around the garden route usually leaves them with only a few days to explore one of our three capital cities.
Over the years I have whittled down a list of attractions to
fit into three leisurely days or two jam packed days if you are willing to pick
up the pace a little. These are not
secret spots by any means but they are fun, look good on Instagram, and locals
like me actually enjoy seeing these sites as well.
I am not going to lie, day one is mostly an excuse for me to eat all day and I start off at the best coffee shop in the world. No really, Truth Café won an award and everything. Not only does the steampunk coffee shop look great on the gram, they serve fantastic coffee and killer éclairs.
Day 1, option 1, depends heavily on our temperamental mountain. If Table Mountain is in the mood I suggest taking the cable car up to the top. This is easier said than done because we have a folk hero called Jan Van Hunks who sometimes has a smoking contest with the devil that covers the mountain with a thick blanket of fog. It is not only vaping old men that could stand in your way. Too strong a wind can stop the cable car and parking is usually quite annoying. I suggest getting there early or taking the red sightseeing bus.
Ah Van Hunks is smoking again…
This bus stops at the areal cable way
I have heard that marathoners hit the wall after running out of carbohydrates, so to be on the safe side, after walking all over the mountain, I head to My Sugar to replenish my carbs. This little chocolaterie sells the most decadent donuts and over the top milkshakes. After all that sugar you can take a walk along sea point promenade and see the sun set over the ocean.
Day 1, option 2 is more relaxing and a tad on the fancy side. Instead of going up a mountain, you just look at one while strolling around Kirstenbosch botanical garden. All the indigenous plants and pretty sun birds flitting about will put you in a great mood but watch out for the guinea fowl. Those punks stole my lunch once back when I was a student and I have never forgiven them.
Kirstenbosch Gardens
Next I suggest doing afternoon tea at either the Mount Nelson or the One & Only hotel. The former is a historic hotel that opened its doors in 1899. I have wonderful memories of sipping hibiscus tea and eating so many mini milktarts that I could hardly stand. The One and Only in comparison is sleek and modern and eating as many macarons as I want is all I really want in life.
After all that afternoon tea I suggest visiting the stalls and shops dotted all around the V&A waterfront. It is one of the best places to people-watch in the world.
V&A WaterfrontV&A Waterfront
Day 2 or 3, depending on your time constraints, is all about the outskirts. Grab a good cup of coffee, walk down to Muizenberg beach and St James beach and watch the surfers brave the cold water. The colourful beach huts behind you also make for great photos.
St James BeachSt James Beach
It is probably a good idea to get in an early lunch before gallivanting all over the Cape. Might I be so bold as to suggest you go a little further down the coast until you hit Kalky’s Fish and Chips? The restaurant might look a little rough and tumble but it is an absolute institution. Nobody uses fresher fish and the atmosphere has not changed since I was a teenager eating for free on my parent’s dime.
Now it is time for the ultimate cuteness! Boulders Penguin Colony has two entrances. On one side you stroll along a wooden walkway and watch the adorable African penguins waddle around on the beach. The other entrance allows you to relax on the sand or swim in the protected cove. If you are lucky the penguins will bless you with their presence and come suntan next to you. Just remember to not bother them and treat them like any other beachgoer who would also not like to be touched or chased.
The walkway Some moms have their nests right next to the walkwayThe second entrance takes you to a beach where you can respectfully hang out with the penguinsThis dude ran right up to where we were sitting.
Lastly I suggest you go see some towering cliffs and beautiful fynbos at Cape Point nature reserve. You will not be able to put your camera down for a second as the views are spectacular from all sides.
Finding dinner is up to you because there are so many wonderful places to eat in Cape Town and the surrounding areas that I would need a whole new blog post to get to all of the ones I want to talk about.
One and Only fondue
Marigold
Kalbi does braaibroodjies
Cape Point Vineyards
Barley & Biltong Emporium
Fat Butcher
Myoga
Terroir
Stellenbosch Kitchen
Cosecha
The Farmhouse (Somersetwest)
Spek & Bone
If you miss anything that I have mentioned don’t feel bad, the chances are you will make your way back to Cape Town at some point and the penguins and snack stealing guinea fowl will still be here.
Bye bye Table Mountain
Details:
Photos: Roland Teichert – (please link this blog if you use any of them).
I could have watched that little rodent do her shopping all day. As the veld rat ran from bush to bush, carrying branches of spekboom back to her nest, I sat on the porch, sipped my coffee, and looked out over the semi-desert landscape. A certain playwright put it best when he said, “I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it”.
If only my husband shared Shakespeare and my sentiments on time wasting. Before I had even finished my chocolate eclair, Roland was itching for a walk around the reserve. A walk that almost ended in him explaining to a doctor why he had hoof-marks on his forehead.
February is not a great month for water birds at Rocherpan, so instead of walking to the bird hides overlooking the dry dam, Roland and I headed for the ocean instead. It did not take us long to reach the beach and as we had the atmospheric place all to ourselves we decided to walk along the waves to the other side of the reserve.
These two almost made us miss the sunset by blocking the path.
Our exercise was
rewarded with oyster catchers running up and down the shore and dolphins popping
up every now and then. Every few meters a flock of terns would lift up into the
air and look annoyed at our intrusion on their afternoon naps.
Bothering terns takes longer than you think though and by the time we crossed the dunes and reached the path for home the sun was already setting. As my choice now turned into nature at night or picking up the pace, I trail ran home in denim shorts, a fancy shirt, and a push up bra. The only snag (other than uncomfortable clothing) that we encountered on our veld run was that Roland is so silent and speedy that a startled grysbok almost jumped right into him.
Rocherpan cottages
are very eco-friendly and come with a composting toilet and rainwater tanks.
They are designed to look like bird hides and the big windows all the way
around really does give you a great view of all the busy birds.
Morning view from our bedroom window.
For your entertainment there is a gorgeous pool, a fun putt-putt course and if you are lucky a boomslang hiding in a tree near reception.
My favourite feature is the outdoor braai that allows you to grill the fresh snoek you bought at the local fisheries that afternoon while surrounded by hooting owls.
I am very good at loudly eating Romany creams in perfectly quiet bird hides, so I have already booked a trip for when the dam is full. I love seeing Roland’s face after a fish eagle hightails it out of camera shot because I took a particularly crunchy bite of biscuit.
This being said, Rocherpan is beautiful at any time. If you are in the mood for a little bird viewing, snoek braaing, or even just sitting on the porch watching a little rat stock up on groceries, I recommend booking your spot.
A Moderate Amount of Nature 